
Mixed Game Grill with Michael Lomonaco
Special | 24m 54sVideo has Closed Captions
'21' Club chef Michael Lomonaco forms a mixed game grill with quail, venison and more.
Chef at the '21' Club in New York City, Michael Lomonaco visits Julia Child in her kitchen. Lomonaco marinates quail and venison, and creates rumaki with boar bacon and rabbit sausage to form a mixed game grill. Using indirect heating with the coals on one side, Lomonaco cooks these meats outside on the grill. Back in the kitchen, Lomonaco creates a berry relish and home-fried potatoes.
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Mixed Game Grill with Michael Lomonaco
Special | 24m 54sVideo has Closed Captions
Chef at the '21' Club in New York City, Michael Lomonaco visits Julia Child in her kitchen. Lomonaco marinates quail and venison, and creates rumaki with boar bacon and rabbit sausage to form a mixed game grill. Using indirect heating with the coals on one side, Lomonaco cooks these meats outside on the grill. Back in the kitchen, Lomonaco creates a berry relish and home-fried potatoes.
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Visit the Julia Child Experience
Get recipes, watch hundreds of episodes of her classic shows, read tributes from celebrity chefs, and more. Bon appetit!HELLO, I'M JULIA CHILD.
WELCOME TO MY HOUSE AND TO MY KITCHEN AND TO ANOTHER CULINARY ADVENTURE WITH ONE OF AMERICA'S MASTER CHEFS.
TODAY, MICHAEL LOMONACO OF THE FAMOUS 21 CLUB IN NEW YORK CITY IS JOINING ME IN MY KITCHEN AND IN MY BACKYARD FOR A GREAT GRILLING RECIPE.
I HEAR WE'RE GOING TO DO A LITTLE GRILLING AND BARBECUING TODAY.
AND IT KIND OF LOOKS IT.
YEAH, WE HAVE SOME MIXED GAME.
WE HAVE VENISON AND QUAIL AND SOME RUMAKI OF DUCK LIVER AND... OH, GREAT.
WE'RE GOING TO MAKE SOME RABBIT SAUSAGE AND WE'RE GOING TO MAKE A MIXED GRILL.
GREAT, THAT'S WONDERFUL.
WELL, HOW ARE YOU GOING TO START IT?
WELL, THE FIRST THING WE'LL DO IS THE QUAIL.
I THINK THAT WE SHOULD GET THOSE INTO A MARINADE.
SO WHAT I HAVE HERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT KINDS.
YOU COULD SEE THAT I HAVE QUAIL WITH BONE IN WHICH THESE LITTLE BIRDS STILL HAVE THE BONES... THEY'RE SO TINY, AREN'T THEY?
YES, THEY ARE.
AND THESE ARE BONELESS QUAIL.
DO YOU BONE THEM YOURSELF?
I DID NOT BONE, THESE ARE COMMERCIALLY DONE.
THEY PLACE THE WIRES IN HERE AFTER THEY BONE THEM OUT.
WHEN WE PUT THESE ON THE GRILL YOU'LL SEE HOW NICE THEY GRILL.
BECAUSE OF THAT, IT KEEPS THEM NICE AND FLAT.
WHAT'S THE MARINADE GOING TO BE?
WELL, WE HAVE SOME OLIVE OIL AND WE'LL PUT THE OLIVE OIL IN HERE.
IS THIS EXTRA VIRGIN AS USUAL?
THIS IS, AND IT'S NOT NECESSARY.
BUT I THINK... JUST AS LONG AS IT'S A GOOD OLIVE OIL.
I THINK A GOOD OLIVE OIL, FLAVORFUL OLIVE OIL... AND SOME SOY SAUCE, AND THIS IS LOW SODIUM.
AND THE ONLY REASON I ASKED FOR LOW SODIUM IS TO BE ABLE TO CONTROL THE FLAVOR OF THE DISH.
RATHER THAN WORRY ABOUT AN OVER-SALTED SOY.
I SEE.
AND WE PUT SOME MAPLE SYRUP.
WELL, THAT'S A GOOD IDEA.
ABOUT A QUARTER OF A CUP OF MAPLE SYRUP HERE.
NOW YOU COULD USE ANY KIND OF SUGAR I MEAN MOLASSES WOULD BE FINE.
HONEY, I SUPPOSE?
HONEY WOULD BE GREAT.
IT'S KIND OF TYPICAL IN MARINADES.
WELL, THAT'S INTERESTING.
AND WE'LL PUT SOME ORANGE AND LEMON JUICE WHICH ALL I'M GOING TO DO IS USE A REAMER.
AND WE'LL USE THE JUICE OF ONE ORANGE AND THE JUICE OF ONE LEMON.
AND WHAT I'M GOING TO DO IS ALSO... IS THROW THE RIND IN TOO BECAUSE IT STILL HAS ALL THE OILS AND... YEAH.
WHEN IT MARINATES, IT'S NICE TO... IN ONE WAY THIS ACTUALLY WILL TENDERIZE IT TOO.
IT'S NICE USING ORANGE.
THAT'S NOT USED VERY MUCH IN MARINADES.
ORANGE, AND SOY, AND OLIVE OIL SOMEHOW ALL WORK TOGETHER FOR ME.
ADD TWO BAY LEAVES.
WE HAVE PEPPERCORNS THAT ARE GOING IN THIS AND JUNIPER BERRIES, I LOVE JUNIPER BERRIES.
THE JUNIPER BERRIES... OH YES, YOU BUY THEM LIKE THAT.
THEY JUST COME IN A LITTLE BOTTLE.
AND THEY HAVE SUCH A FRAGRANT AROMA.
YOU RECOGNIZE THAT AROMA OF GIN WHICH IS WHAT THEY BREW GIN FROM.
OH YES, WHICH IS VERY FRAGRANT.
AND WE'LL PUT A TABLESPOON OF EACH IN AND INTO A LITTLE BAGGY.
WE'LL CRUSH THEM SO THAT WE CAN ADD... WELL, THAT'S A GOOD IDEA.
GIVE THEM A LITTLE WHACK, AND CRUSH THEM.
IT BRINGS OUT THE FLAVOR.
YEAH, TO REALLY, REALLY SOFTEN THEM.
THAT'S A VERY GOOD IDEA SO THEY DON'T GO ALL OVER THE FLOOR.
THEY DON'T GO ALL OVER.
AND WE'LL ADD THAT TO THE MARINADE.
AND I'M JUST GOING TO POUR THIS RIGHT OVER EVERYTHING.
AND I'M GOING TO LET THEM... WE'LL LET IT ALL MARINATE.
LET THOSE SIT AND THINK.
DO THEY HAVE TO BE REFRIGERATED?
YES, ABSOLUTELY, THEY SHOULD BE REFRIGERATED.
HOW LONG DO THEY NEED TO BE?
WELL, THESE SHOULD GO FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS.
OVERNIGHT WOULD BE FINE, BUT CERTAINLY FOR A FEW HOURS.
WHAT I JUST WANT TO DO IS TRY AND GET A LITTLE BIT ON ALL OF THEM.
AND THEN WE CAN SET THEM ASI AND MAKE SURE THAT THEY ALL HAVE A LITTLE BIT OF ALL THE JUICES ON THEM.
I THINK THE NEXT THING WE'LL DO IS THE VENISON.
THE VENISON RACK THAT WE BROUGHT... I'LL MOVE THIS OVER HERE.
THIS IS WHAT'S CALLED A "FRENCHED" VENISON RACK.
"FRENCHED" BEING THE TRADITIONAL FRENCH STYLE OF CLEANING IT ALL AND SHOWING THE BONES.
YEAP.
AND IT MAKES A WONDERFUL PRESENTATION.
AND IT ALSO ELIMINATES ALL OF THE GRISTLE.
AND I THINK THE NEXT THING WE'LL DO IS THIS SKIN, THAT'S ALL.
NOW THIS YOU'LL FIND ON MOST RACKS, SILVER SKIN.
IS THAT A LITTLE GRISTLE?
THAT'S A LITTLE BIT SO YOU'LL WANT TO REMOVE THAT.
AND I'M JUST GOING TO TAKE THAT OFF SO THAT I CAN TAKE THIS AND NOT WORRY ABOUT THAT.
IN OTHER WORDS, WHAT YOU DON'T LIKE JUST CUT OFF.
YEAH.
AND I THINK THAT ANYTIME YOU TAKE HOME A CHICKEN OR A PIECE OF MEAT FROM THE BUTCHER AND IT'S NOT EXACTLY WHAT YOU WANT IT TO BE JUST TAKE A KNIFE AND DO IT.
I THINK BUTCHERING IS ONE OF THOSE THINGS THAT INTIMIDATES PEOPLE ONLY BECAUSE THEY DON'T DO IT ENOUGH AND IT'S... I LOVE, I'D REALLY BE HAPPY TO BE A BUTCHER.
I LOVE DOING ALL OF THAT.
IT'S A GREAT PART OF THE ART OF COOKING IS BEING ABLE TO... OH, YEAH.
YOU KNOW, TAKE ANYTHING THAT YOU WANT AND ALTER IT TO WHAT YOU WOULD LIKE IT TO BE.
THEN YOU KNOW HOW TO CARVE IT BECAUSE YOU KNOW HOW IT'S MADE.
WE'RE GOING TO MARINATE THAT IN A VERY SIMPLE WAY WITH A CHILE PASTE WITH DRIED CHILE PEPPERS.
THAT I'VE TAKEN THE PEPPERS AND I'VE BOILED THEM ACTUALLY IN A LITTLE BIT OF HOT WATER FOR A FEW MINUTES AND THEY SOFTEN UP, JUST LIKE THAT.
WHICH CHILES ARE THESE?
THESE ARE CHIPOTLE.
IT'S A DRIED CHILE THAT'S BEEN SMOKED WHILE IT'S BEEN DRYING.
OH, I SEE, YES.
BUT THERE'S ANCHO CHILES AND POBLANOS THAT ARE DRIED TO BE ANCHOS.
SO ALL OF THOSE DRIED PEPPERS ARE READILY AVAILABLE IN SPECIALTY STORES.
I SOAK THE PEPPERS AND THEN MAKE A PUREE OUT OF IT.
WE PUREED IT IN A BLENDER AND THEN PASS IT THROUGH A FINE SIEVE TO REMOVE ANY... ANY SKINS BEFORE, YOU KNOW THE ONE THING TO DO IS TO BE CAREFUL IS BEFORE YOU PUREE THESE EITHER IN A BLENDER OR IN A FOOD PROCESSOR IS TO REMOVE THE SEEDS.
WHICH WE DO THAT WITH THE BACK OF A KNIFE AND HANDLE IT AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE BECAUSE THE OILS CAN BE A LITTLE HOT.
SO, I'M JUST GOING TO CHOP A LITTLE GARLIC AND MIX WITH THE PEPPER SMASH THE GARLIC CLOVES.
IT'S ALWAYS INTERESTING TO SEE OTHER PEOPLE'S METHOD OF DOING GARLIC.
AH HUM.
THERE'S SO MANY.
EVERYONE HAS, I'M SURE THEIR WAY THAT MAKES THEM HAPPIEST.
IT DEPENDS ON WHAT IT'S GOING TO BE USED FOR.
YOU SEE, IN THIS CASE I WANT THE GARLIC TO BE AS FINE AS CAN BE.
ONE THING THAT I DO IS JUST PUT A LITTLE BIT OF SALT ON THE GARLIC NOT TOO MUCH, JUST A LITTLE, THAT'S KOSHER SALT.
AND THAT ABSORBS THE OIL SO THAT THE KNIFE CAN PASS THROUGH VERY EASILY.
BECAUSE WHAT I WANT TO MAKE IS A GARLIC PASTE.
I'LL COMBINE THE GARLIC PASTE WITH THE CHILE.
AND ALL I'LL DO IS TAKE A LITTLE BIT OF THE CHILE PASTE AND I'M JUST GOING TO MIX THE CHILE PASTE WITH THE GARLIC.
SO WE JUST MADE A LITTLE PASTE THAT WE THEN CAN SEASON... AND THAT CAN BE BRUSHED ON.
THAT'S CERTAINLY VERY EASILY DONE.
THAT'S IT.
AND I GUESS WITH THAT PASTE THAT WILL KEEP?
IT WILL STAY FOR WEEKS.
YEAH.
THE DRIED CHILES THEMSELVES HAVE A VERY LONG LIFE YOU KNOW, ON A SHELF.
YEAH.
AND ANYTIME YOU MAKE THE PASTE AND PUREE AND STRAIN IT WE COVER IT WITH A LITTLE BIT OF OLIVE OIL.
JUST PUT A LITTLE BIT OF OLIVE OIL ON TOP.
AND REFRIGERATED THAT WILL STAY FOR WEEKS AND WEEKS.
AND THAT WILL JUST MARINATE.
HOW LONG WOULD THAT GO?
THIS I'D LIKE TO GO OVERNIGHT.
I MEAN, SEVERAL HOURS WOULD BE FINE DEPENDING ON THE INTENSITY.
AND THAT'S THE VENISON.
I'VE BROUGHT SOME DUCK LIVERS TO MAKE RUMAKI.
YOU COULD USE CHICKEN LIVER IN THIS, NO PROBLEM.
BUT THE DUCK LIVER... DOES IT HAVE MORE FLAVOR, DO YOU THINK?
IT HAS A CERTAIN CHARACTER THAT'S DISTINGUISHABLE.
A LITTLE REMINISCENCE OF FOIE GRAS?
I THINK IT'S REMINISCENT OF DUCK RATHER THAN OF CHICKEN... AH HUH, YEAH.
IT HAS A LITTLE MORE ASSERTIVE FLAVOR.
THEY'RE ALSO A LITTLE LARGER, SO THEY... YEAH.
THEY WORK VERY WELL ON THE BARBECUE, ON THE GRILL ITSELF.
AND THE ONLY THING THAT MIGHT BE A LITTLE BIT MORE DIFFICULT TO GET.
BUT, THIS IS WILD BOAR BACON FROM SOUTH TEXAS.
AH HA.
AND YOU KNOW, IT'S EUROPEAN BOAR.
IT WAS INTRODUCED AFTER THE TURN OF THE CENTURY PRIMARILY FOR GAME HUNTING.
AND NOW THEY'RE INDIGENOUS CREATURES.
THEY'RE ALL OVER.
THEY'RE ALL OVER SOUTH TEXAS, FLORIDA AS WELL.
AND THERE ARE SOME OF THEM IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA TOO, I KNOW.
AND THE ONLY THING THAT I'M GOING TO DO WITH THIS IS WRAP THE LIVER WITH A PIECE OF BACON.
OH, WITH BACON.
AND I'LL SKEWER IT.
YEAH.
AND WE'LL PUT TWO TOGETHER ON EVERY SKEWER AND THE BACON WILL MARINATE THE LIVER NICELY.
WHEN IT COOKS, IT WILL ALL COOK TOGETHER.
IT'S JUST A GOOD SIZE.
AND WE'LL MAKE UP SOME LIKE THAT.
AFTER WE'VE MARINATED ALL OF THIS AND LET THAT REST THE RUMAKI CAN STAY OVERNIGHT AS WELL YEAH.
OR IT CAN BE DONE IN ADVANCE.
THAT DOESN'T GET ANY MARINADE IT DOESN'T NEED IT.
NOTHING AT ALL.
JUST A LITTLE BIT OF SALT AND PEPPER BEFORE WE GRILL IT.
NOW, THIS IS YOUR SAUSAGE SETUP, I PRESUME?
THIS IS THE RABBIT SAUSAGE SETUP, EXACTLY.
WE'LL BONE OUT A PIECE OF THE THIGH HERE.
WE'LL BONE OUT SOME OF THIS LEG.
WHILE I GET THIS OUT OF YOUR WAY.
AND THAT'S WHAT WE USE.
I'M JUST TAKING THE RABBIT RIGHT OFF THE BONE AND THERE'S JUST A LITTLE BIT OF TENDON AND LIGAMENT, AND CONNECTIVE TISSUE THAT COME OFF VERY EASILY WITH A SHARP KNIFE.
THIS IS JUST FATBACK.
AND THAT'S JUST CALLED "PORK FATBACK".
YEAP.
AND I'M JUST GOING TO DICE THIS.
I'M JUST CUTTING IT RATHER SMALL SO THAT IT PASSES THROUGH THE GRINDER EASILY WITHOUT CLOGGING THE GRINDER.
WE HAVE ABOUT A POUND OF MEAT THAT WE HAVE HERE WITH ABOUT A QUARTER OF A POUND OF THE PORK FAT.
AND WE'LL GRIND ALL OF THE RABBIT.
AND THE LAST THING WE'LL DO IS PUT THE PORK FAT THROUGH.
THAT'S FINE.
THIS IS CUMIN, GROUND CUMIN SEED.
I PUT A LITTLE BIT OF CAYENNE.
THIS IS CILANTRO.
AND I'M JUST PUTTING A LITTLE CHOPPED CILANTRO LEAVES IN HERE.
THIS IS A LITTLE SALT AND PEPPER.
AND THIS IS... PORT WINE.
PORT WINE.
AND WE'LL PUT ABOUT A QUARTER OF A CUP OF PORT WINE IN HERE.
I'M JUST GOING TO USE THIS, I'M JUST GOING TO MIX THIS TOGETHER AND NOW YOU CAN SEE THE CASING HANGING OFF THE END?
YEAH.
AND THE SAUSAGE RIGHT HERE.
WHEN THE CASING, IT JUST COMES... AND THEN YOU HAVE TO SOAK IT, WOULDN'T YOU?
HOG CASING IS THE THICKER SAUSAGE CASING.
THE SHEEP CASING IS THINNER, AND THAT'S WHAT WE'RE USING.
AND THERE SHE COMES.
AND THERE WE GO.
DO YOU WANT ME TO HOLD THAT?
SURE.
IF YOU COULD JUST TAKE THE END THEN I CAN FOCUS ON THIS.
JUST AT EVERY FEW INCHES JUST TYING A LITTLE BIT OF STRING.
AND YOU CAN MAKE THEM ANY SIZE YOU WANT?
YEAP, YOU SURE CAN.
HERE'S ONE THAT WAS ALREADY DONE, READY FOR COOKING.
WELL, IT LOOKS AS THOUGH WE ARE READY FOR THE BARBECUE, LET'S GO.
I'M DYING TO SEE ALL OF THIS REALLY, IN THE BARBECUE.
WELL, LET ME SHOW YOU WHAT WE HAVE IN HERE.
WE BUILT THE FIRE AND YOU CAN SEE WITH THE CHARCOAL BRIQUETTES ON EITHER SIDE.
YEAH.
SO THAT WE HAVE AN INDIRECT HEATING.
AND THAT WAY WE CAN COOK PARTLY OVER FIRE AND PARTLY JUST IN THE WARM CHAMBER.
SO EVERYTHING WON'T BURN BLACK.
SO EVERYTHING DOESN'T BURN AND TURN BLACK, EXACTLY.
AND WHAT I DO IS TO JUST TO RUB A LITTLE BIT OF OIL ON THE GRILL.
OBVIOUSLY, SO THINGS WON'T STICK?
YEAH.
SHALL WE SEASON WITH SOME SALT AND PEPPER AND... OKAY, SHALL I DO PEPPER?
THAT WOULD BE A HELP.
THAT WOULD BE GREAT.
AND WE CAN PLACE THE RACK OF VENISON ON ONE SIDE AND I'LL PUT THE BONES OUT SO THAT WE DON'T SCORCH THE BONES.
YOU DON'T WANT TO BURN THOSE.
SO NOW, THE QUAIL WE'RE GOING TO PUT OVER ON THIS ONE.
AND IT'S INTERESTING THAT PEOPLE ARE ALWAYS BASTING THE MEAT WITH OLIVE OIL OR SOMETHING, AND YOU DON'T DO THAT?
IT'S NOT NECESSARY HERE.
FIRST OF ALL THE QUAIL HAVE BEEN SITTING IN A MARINADE THAT HAS OIL IN IT SO IT'S PRACTICALLY LIKE THEY'RE SELF-BASTING.
THE VENISON ALSO HAS A MARINADE.
DO YOU NEED TO PRICK THE SAUSAGE TO KEEP THEM FROM BURSTING, ISN'T IT?
YEAP, AND THESE ARE ACTUALLY VERY TIGHT.
AND WE WERE ABLE TO GET ALL OF THE AIR OUT OF THEM.
SO I THINK THAT... AND THE LAST THING TO GO ON WILL BE THE RUMAKI THE LITTLE SKEWERS.
THE LITTLE LIVERS.
YEAH, AND THEY'LL BEGIN TO COOK SLOWLY WITH THIS INDIRECT HEAT.
AND WE CAN CHECK OUR QUAIL.
YOU PUT THE TOUGHER THINGS ON THE SIDE?
YEAH.
THE QUAIL, WE WANT TO SEAR IT WHICH IT'S ACTUALLY DOING QUITE NICELY OVER THE COALS.
AND WE'LL CHECK THE VENISON RACK.
OF COURSE THE VENISON TAKES LONGER TO COOK, DOESN'T IT?
IT WILL.
I'LL BE THE FIRST THING ON AND THE LAST THING OFF.
NOW THIS WILL COOK FOR TEN MINUTES AND THEN WE'LL BE ABLE TO ADD THE WOOD CHIPS THEN SMOKE EVERYTHING.
SO I'M MOVING SOME OF THE QUAIL AROUND BECAUSE I DON'T WANT THEM TO BURN.
SO THEY'VE GOTTEN A GOOD COLOR ON THEM.
NOW I CAN MOVE THEM OFF THE DIRECT FIRE.
SO WE CAN JUST GIVE A LITTLE COLOR TO THE SAUSAGES.
AND THEN WE'LL PREPARE TO CLOSE THE LID.
OKAY, I THINK WE CAN ADD OUR WOOD CHIPS NOW.
THIS PARTICULAR GRATE MAKES IT EASY TO DO THAT.
THAT'S WONDERFUL, ISN'T IT.
THE WOOD CHIPS HAVE BEEN SOAKED IN WATER THESE ARE HICKORY CHIPS.
SO THAT WILL GIVE A LIGHT NOT OVERLY-SMOKED.
SO, WE'RE GOING TO DO THAT AND CLOSE OUR LID.
AND THEN THE FIRE IS REALLY... THE COALS ARE REALLY KIND OF GLOWING, AREN'T THEY?
THEY'RE NICE AND ASHY AND THERE'S HEAT WITHOUT A LOT OF FIRE COMING OFF OF THEM.
THAT THE COALS HAVE REALLY COOKED NICELY.
AND THIS WE CAN JUST PUT A LID ON.
LOOK AT ALL THAT.
THAT'S BEEN ABOUT 15 MINUTES COVERED ROASTING.
PUFF.
IT IS QUITE A BIT OF SMOKE, YOU'RE RIGHT.
IT IS.
BUT THAT WILL ALL SORT OF GO AWAY.
AND HOW DO WE KNOW IT'S DONE, BY PRESSING IT?
WELL, YOU COULD FEEL THAT THE SAUSAGES ARE.
YEAH, THAT'S RIGHT.
AND THE LIVERS.
THAT'S STILL... ACTUALLY YOU COULD SEE.
A BIT RARE, ISN'T IT?
I THINK WHAT I, WE SHOULD DO RIGHT NOW IS JUST MOVE THE VENISON A LITTLE BIT MORE ONTO THIS AND GET A LITTLE MORE HEAT WHILE WE'RE TAKING EVERYTHING ELSE OFF.
YEAH.
AND THEN IT WILL CARRY OVER.
OH, GOOD.
THE VENISON WILL CONTINUE TO COOK.
OH IT WILL, THAT'S GOOD.
EVERYTHING WILL CONTINUE TO COOK A LITTLE BIT.
WELL, THEY LOOK DELICIOUS.
I'M READY TO EAT THEM.
THE SAUSAGE IS REALLY... YOU SEE THEY'RE NOT CHARRED AND... YEAH, THEY'RE LOVELY.
AND YOU STILL GET THE NICE CHARACTER OF THE RABBIT ITSELF.
AND I'M GLAD TO SEE YOU'RE USING A CLEAN TRAY.
THEY ALWAYS SAY, "IF YOU USE A DIRTY ONE YOU'LL JUST TRANSFER BACTERIA."
THAT'S ABSOLUTELY TRUE.
I WOULDN'T PUT ANYTHING BACK INTO THE MARINADE.
THE MARINADE THAT WE USED FOR THE QUAIL NOW IS FINISHED.
I GUESS UNLESS YOU'RE COOKING, YEAH.
WE'LL TAKE THAT OFF.
YOU WANT IT RARE?
I WOULD LIKE IT NOT MORE THAN MEDIUM RARE BECAUSE VENISON IS VERY LEAN.
AH HA.
IN ORDER TO MAINTAIN THE FLAVOR AND MOISTURE.
AND IT CAN BE TOUGH IF YOU OVERCOOK IT.
IF YOU OVERCOOK IT IT TOUGHENS IT IMMEDIATELY, THAT'S RIGHT BECAUSE OF THE LEANNESS.
THAT LOOKS ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS.
THAT'S GREAT, I CAN'T WAIT TO EAT THAT.
Julia: NOW WHAT ARE WE GOING TO DO HERE?
Lomonaco: WE'RE GOING TO MAKE BERRY RELISH AND IT'S ALMOST LIKE A CHUTNEY WHEN WE'RE FINISHED WITH IT EXCEPT IT DOESN'T HAVE ONIONS AND PEPPERS IN IT BUT IT'S SWEET AND SOUR.
NOW THESE ARE CURRANTS, RED AND BLACK CURRANTS.
AND THESE ACTUALLY CAN BE BOUGHT AT TIMES OF THE YEAR FRESH AND SOMETIMES FROZEN JUST THE BERRIES.
AND SOMETIMES YOU CAN FIND THEM IN SYRUP AND IF I WERE TO USE THE ONES IN SYRUP I WOULD DRAIN THE SYRUP AND JUST USE THE BERRIES.
SO WE'RE USING RED AND BLACK CURRANTS AND WHICH WE CAN PUT RIGHT IN HERE.
WE HAVE PORT, AND THAT'S ABOUT A... THAT'S NOT VERY MUCH.
BROWN SUGAR.
THE BERRIES REALLY HAVE A TARTNESS THAT'S ALL THEIR OWN.
I'M PUTTING JUST ENOUGH SUGAR TO MELLOW OUT THE TARTNESS BUT NOT FOR IT TO BE A SWEET DISH.
AND THAT'S ABOUT A POUND OF BERRIES THERE SO IT TAKES QUITE A BIT.
IT CALLS FOR ORANGE JUICE AND LEMON JUICE.
AND ALSO ORANGE ZEST AND LEMON ZEST.
SO I'M JUST GOING TO JUICE THE ORANGE RIGHT IN HERE.
YOU CAN BUY THOSE LITTLE ZESTERS IN ANY GOURMET EQUIPMENT.
YEAH, THEY'RE REALLY VERY INEXPENSIVE.
YOU COULD DO THIS WITH A POTATO PEELER AS WELL AND THEN JULIENNE IT WITH A KNIFE.
AND NOW I'LL PUT THE ZEST IN AND JUICE OF ONE LEMON.
AND THEN AFTER WE'VE ZESTED IT... THEY'VE GOT A LOT OF SEEDS HOW ARE YOU GOING TO AVOID THEM?
I WILL DO IT INTO ANOTHER BOWL.
AH.
AND THEN... THIS ONE HAD A LOT OF SEEDS.
SOME LEMONS HAVE HARDLY ANY AND SOME HAVE SO MANY.
THAT'S A LOT OF WONDERFUL LEMONY SMELL, LOVELY.
THIS IS A VERY OFFICIAL WAY OF DOING THIS RIGHT THROUGH THE HANDS.
THERE'S NOTHING KE HANDS IN COOKERY.
THAT'S WHAT YOUR HANDS ARE FOR.
EXACTLY.
IMPECCABLY CLEAN AS THEY ALWAYS ARE.
THEY ARE.
AND THEN WE CAN THROW AWAY THE SEEDS AND THE PITS.
THE LAST THING THAT WE'LL PUT IN HERE WILL BE SOME GINGER.
YEAH.
AND THIS IS JUST SOME PLASTIC WRAP OVER A GRATER.
YEAH.
I'M JUST GOING TO GRATE A LITTLE BIT OF THE GINGER.
WELL, NOW THAT'S A VERY GOOD IDEA.
ENOUGH FOR THE RECIPE.
RIGHT ON THE PLASTIC WRAP.
YEAH.
THAT'S SO EASY ISN'T IT?
AND IT'S SO EASY.
NOW THE, IF NOT USING THE PLASTIC ALL OF THE GRATED GINGER GETS TRAPPED IN THE... AND ALL THE JUICES.
ON THE GRATER AND YOU LOSE IT ALL.
YEAP.
BUT THIS IS VERY EASY TO JUST GRATE A LITTLE BIT.
THAT'S ALL WE NEED, SCRAPE IT RIGHT OFF.
BECAUSE YOU DON'T WANT TOO MUCH CAUSE IT GETS VERY STRONG, DOESN'T IT?
IT'S VERY STRONG, IT IS.
AND THE LAST IS CAYENNE.
AS YOU'VE POINTED OUT THAT'S REALLY CHILE, ISN'T IT?
YES, IT CERTAINLY IS.
THAT WAS JUST ABOUT A TEASPOON IS PLENTY FOR ALL OF THIS.
I'M JUST GOING TO STIR ALL THAT AND I'M GOING TO PUT IT RIGHT OVER HERE.
AND WE'LL BRING IT TO A BOIL.
AND AFTER IT'S BOILED WE'LL TURN IT DOWN TO A SIMMER.
YOU COULD SMELL THE FRESH CITRUS.
UM, THAT'S LOVELY.
AND THE GINGER ALL TOGETHER.
THE FRESHNESS DOES MAKE A LOT OF DIFFERENCE.
THAT'S BUBBLING NICELY.
AS YOU CAN SEE, IT'S BUBBLING NICELY.
YEAH, IT IS.
IT LOOKS RATHER LIKE THE BEGINNING OF CRANBERRY RELISH TOO, DOESN'T IT?
YOU KNOW, IF YOU DON'T HAVE CURRANTS CRANBERRIES ARE A PERFECT THING TO USE HERE.
OR HUCKLEBERRIES IF YOU'RE IN A PART OF THE COUNTRY THAT HAS THEM.
EVEN GOOD RIPE BLUEBERRIES AT THE END OF SUMMER.
I MEAN IT'S JUST A BASIC RELISH BERRY RELISH RECIPE.
SO NOW, THE ACTUAL BERRIES THEMSELVES ARE BEGINNING TO POP AND THAT'S WHAT WE WANT.
YOU WANT ALL OF THEM ALL TO POP?
NO, WE WANT TO KEEP SOME OF THEM WHOLE BUT WE WANT THEM TO BEGIN AT THAT STAGE.
IT'S JUST ABOUT READY TO COME OFF.
AND WE CAN POUR IT OUT AND YOU'LL SEE WHAT AS THE BERRIES BEGIN TO POP THEY'RE GOING TO RELEASE THEIR OWN PECTINS.
I LIKE TO MAKE THIS A DAY OR TWO BEFORE WE INTEND TO USE IT SO THAT IT HAS A CHANCE TO MELLOW.
KIND OF MELDS TOGETHER?
AND THE ACTUAL PECTINS PULL IT TOGETHER.
YOU CAN SEE IT'S VERY HOT SO WE'LL BE CAREFUL POURING IT HERE.
AND THE COLOR IS SO RICH NOW.
IT'S SOMETHING THAT WILL KEEP IN THE FRIDGE FOR... THIS WOULD STAY FOR WEEKS.
WEEKS I WOULD THINK.
IT WOULD, AND IF YOU WERE OF THE MIND TO BOTTLE IT AND PUT IT UP IN JARS IT WOULD STAY FOR EVEN LONGER THAN THAT.
YEAH.
MAKE A NICE CHRISTMAS PRESENT.
ACTUALLY IT DOES.
NOW WE'RE GOING TO SEE SOME REAL HOME-FRIED POTATOES.
THAT'S WHAT I LOVE.
I'M INTERESTED TO SEE HOW THE PRO DOES THEM BECAUSE THEY'RE SO GOOD.
ARE THESE VIDALIA ONIONS?
THESE ARE VERY SWEET VIDALIA ONIONS, YOU'RE RIGHT.
I'M JUST GOING TO DICE THIS ONE AND THEN WE'LL ADD IT TO THE ONE THAT I'VE ALREADY DICED.
YEAH.
AND WE'LL SAUTE THEM UNTIL THEY'RE NICE AND GOLDEN BROWN CRISPY CARAMELIZED.
I'M JUST GOING TO SAUTE THE ONION IN A LITTLE BIT OF OLIVE OIL.
WE'LL JUST ADD OUR ONIONS TO THIS NOW.
WHAT WE DID WITH THE POTATOES AFTER WE, I BOILED THEM FOR ABOUT... TEN TO 12 MINUTES SO THEY'D STAY NICE AND FIRM.
AND THEN WE JUST CUT THEM IN WEDGES.
SO THEY'RE JUST REALLY SORT OF HALF COOKED, AREN'T THEY?
BUT NOW WHEN WE SAUTE THEM THEY FINISH COOKING AND THE SMALL POTATOES ARE REALLY BEST.
THE SKINS ARE THINNEST AND THEY'RE JUST THE RIGHT SIZE.
AND, AGAIN, WE'RE GOING TO DO THE SAME THING FOR THE POTATOES.
A LITTLE BIT OF OLIVE OIL AND ALSO A LITTLE BIT OF BUTTER ON THIS.
THAT'S TO GET THAT NICE BUTTER FLAVOR.
THAT NICE BUTTERY FLAVOR AND A GOOD COLOR ON IT AS WELL.
WE'LL ADD BUTTER AS IT BEGINS TO FOAM JUST LIKE THAT.
WE'RE GOING TO USE... EVEN WITH THESE PANS REALLY WILL GET A NICE CARAMELIZED COLOR ON THE ONIONS AND A NICE CRISPY BROWN TEXTURE TO THE POTATOES.
YOU'VE GOT TO REMEMBER AFTER YOU'VE BOILED POTATOES TO DRAIN THEM WELL SO THAT THERE'S NO REMAINING MOISTURE ON THE SKIN.
OTHERWISE THEY WOULDN'T BROWN I GUESS, YES.
ONIONS ARE REALLY PERFECTLY DONE NICE AND BROWN.
I THINK IT'S VERY CLEVER DOING THEM IN TWO PANS.
AND THE POTATOES ARE REALLY JUST ABOUT FINISHED NOW.
AND THIS IS THE TIME WHEN WE'LL PUT THE ONIONS IN ADD THE ONIONS RIGHT TO THE POTATOES AND GIVE THIS ALL A NICE STIR TOGETHER TO REALLY COMBINE THEM.
THE ONIONS ARE SO NICELY BROWNED AND SAUTEED NOW THEY'VE COOKED ON THEIR OWN AND EVERYTHING IS COOKED AT ITS OWN PACE.
NOW WE CAN SEASON THIS WITH A LITTLE BIT OF SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND PEPPER.
AND THIS IS THE PAPRIKA.
THAT GIVES IT A MORE INTENSE BROWN, DOESN'T IT?
UM HUM, IT GIVES IT A LITTLE BIT OF COLOR AND ADDS JUST A HINT OF SWEETNESS OF THE SWEET PEPPERS THAT ARE IN IT.
IT'S A VERY SIMPLE DISH BUT IT MUST BE PROPERLY DONE.
I THINK THAT IT TAKES A LITTLE TIME BUT IT'S WORTH DOING.
OH, YES.
THE LAST THING WE ADD TO THIS IS SOME FRESH THYME.
OH OH, THAT WILL BE NICE.
AND WE ADD IT AT THE VERY END JUST BEFORE WE'RE ABOUT TO TAKE IT OFF OF THE STOVE SO THAT THE THYME ITSELF DOESN'T GET A CHANCE TO COOK TOO MUCH.
AND JUST ENOUGH HEAT FOR IT TO RELEASE ITS AROMAS AND FLAVOR AND... THAT'S IMPORTANT TOO, ISN'T IT, JUST A LITTLE HEAT.
YOU CAN HEAR THE THYME TOASTING, YOU HEAR THAT?
THAT'S ACTUALLY THE THYME ITSELF AND THAT IS MY FAVORITE PART OF ADDING HERBS TO FOOD BECAUSE JUST AT THE END IT RELEASES ALL OF ITS BOUQUET AND THAT'S THE TIME TO SERVE IT.
UM, I CAN SMELL IT NOW.
MICHAEL, THIS IS SO BEAUTIFUL AND SO MOUTH-WATERING.
YOUR VENISON, IT WAS COOKED PERFECTLY.
IT SMELLS LUSCIOUS TOO.
THE RELISH IS GOING BEAUTIFULLY WITH THAT.
I GUESS THAT'S THAT WHOLE GRAIN MUSTARD?
IT'S A WHOLE GRAIN MUSTARD.
IT'S JUST KIND OF A NICE COMPLEMENT.
AND THAT BEAUTIFUL ASPARAGUS, THAT... ANY SEASONAL VEGETABLE BUT THE ASPARAGUS LOOKED GOOD.
THAT WAS BEAUTIFULLY COOKED AND ENDING WITH THOSE DIVINE POTATOES.
THE THYME STILL HAS AN AROMA.
THAT'S THE AMAZING THING.
AND ON THE STOVE COOKING OVER HERE I HAVE REDUCED A LITTLE RED WINE WITH SHALLOTS AND ADDED JUST A LITTLE BIT OF A VEAL STOCK TO IT.
AND I'M JUST GOING TO POUR THAT OVER ALL OF THE MEATS AS SORT OF A JUICE, OR A JUS, OR A VERY LIGHT... JUST A LITTLE BIT, YEAH.
JUST A LITTLE BIT.
AND JUST AT THE VERY END WE COULD BRING THIS TO THE TABLE AND PUT THIS INTO A LITTLE SERVER.
OR JUST HAVE PEOPLE SERVE THEMSELVES FROM HERE AS A BUFFET.
YOU WERE WONDERFUL TO COME HERE AND COOK THIS FOR US AND I THINK IT WILL BE ONE OF OUR MEMORABLE MEALS.
WELL, THANK YOU, JULIA BUT IT WAS WONDERFUL COOKING WITH YOU... WELL, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
I THINK I LEARNED A LOT OF THIS FROM YOU.
WELL, I LEARNED A LOT FROM YOU.
THANK YOU.
THIS HAS BEEN A REALLY GREAT EXPERIENCE FOR ME, MICHAEL YOU HAVE BEEN VERY KIND TO COME AND COOK IN MY KITCHEN.
AND I'VE JUST LOVED EVERY MINUTE OF IT.
WELL THANK YOU JULIA, THANK YOU FOR OPENING YOUR KITCHEN TO ME.
IT'S THE MOST EXCITING TIME OF MY LIFE THANK YOU.
BON APPETIT.


- Food
Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television
Transform home cooking with the editors of Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Magazine.












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